One of the great features of this saw is that it comes stock with guide bearings instead of blocks. Different blades may need more or less tension. Note that this measurement is only accurate for the stock blade that comes with the saw. Adjust with the knob at the very top of the saw. If you can't move it 1/4", it's too tight. Use your pinky to press on the flat of the blade along the ruler. Set your try square on top of that with the end of the ruler just behind and parallel with the blade.
To measure that, set a 2" thick block of wood on the table. The blade of the 10" model 21400 band saw should deflect 1/4" at the center of the exposed area with the guide fully raised using "pinky finger" pressure. That makes accurately setting the blade tension not only difficult, but possibly dangerous! After some research, and various "techniques" used by other owners, here's what I settled on. The Sears Craftsman 10" band saw, model 21400, oddly enough does not come with a tension gauge. After much playing with techniques on my band saw, I feel I can share what worked. I watched a buttload of videos, read many many writeups on band saw care, checked books out of the library, etc.
#AJUST BLADE ON OLD CRAFTSMAN TABLE SAW MANUAL#
The manual is pretty much a joke, and all the stuff online is for 14" Deltas, Grizzlys, Jets, etc. Ok, you got the 10" Craftsman band saw for Christmas. I cannot be responsible for your failure to unplug the thing when sticking your hands around its sharp blade and spinning wheels!!! Why you should inspect your wood before planing.Īll operarions discussed in this article were done with the saw turned off and unplugged.I really don't want to switch though because then it takes forever to move the head in and out, which is, I'm assuming, why you would like to refit it with a crank handle. I'm thinking the solid thread version may be a bit stronger, but I'm just guessing. The cast iron just shattered when I was doing what I thought to be a routine clamp-down. Incidentally, the quick-release cam on mine recently broke and I'm not really looking forward to fixing it. It would take an awful lot of force to break that, but if for some reason you really needed threads, the existing hole could relatively easily be tapped - that is, as long as the shaft isn't hardened, which I don't believe it is. All that pin does is keep the handle from rotating on the shaft, just like a shear pin. I have the quick-release version of that on my bench. You can just make out the split in the sheet metal tube in the upper right of the hole, which you can also see is smooth with no threads. If you click on the image to enlarge it and look carefully, you can see a better view of the rolled pin holding it together. If you go here, you can see a better view of the front vice: They are all made in the same factory in China. that is part of the same line that Woodcraft also sells. You don't think the existing handle is just set with a allen set screw? There are several factors to consider though before making such a change, so if you're interested, send me a private message.
I'd be happy to help out just for the fun of it. Vic: if you really want a round handle on the end of that, I do machining as well as woodworking, so if you're ever up in the Seattle area, bring the vise with you and I could either machine you something or we could find something you like through McMasters or whoever and I could adapt it for you. If you can see all the way through the hole, it's a pin made by rolling a piece of steel into a tube. I believe it's actually a pressed pin inside the hole, similar to a shear pin. If that's the case, sure seems like you could find a handwheel that would fit over that collar and lock in place with its own inset screw. I'm guessing the collar under that is smooth without threads. in the closeup, there looks to be an inset screw with a hex head.
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